In this exclusive interview, Jake Grantham, founder of Anglo-Italian, sits down with John Kiely, Partner at Howard Kennedy, to discuss the trends shaping the future of menswear and retail. A passionate advocate of the brand, John brings a personal connection to the conversation – he is a regular customer of Anglo-Italian, including choosing an Anglo-Italian suit for his wedding day. Together, they explore how Anglo-Italian has successfully balanced tradition with contemporary demands, navigated the challenges of a dynamic market, and stayed ahead of the curve in delivering exceptional customer experiences.
Jake, could we start by speaking about current trends in menswear and how Anglo-Italian are adapting to changing consumer preferences?
Luxury menswear is bucking the general trend for poor performance across the fashion industry. We’ve been fortunate to benefit from a huge resurgence in buying less but buying better. Whilst fewer suits are being purchased globally - even falling out of the government’s inflation cart - those who want them are focusing on quality from more specialist retailers. Thanks to the internet the traditional industry gatekeepers have become less relevant, with known brands carrying less weight as people instead opt for a combination of quality, nuance and personal service.
How do you balance classic styles with modern demands?
Over the last 15 years, I’ve been fortunate to work with Savile Row, Italian and Japanese tailors as well as other craftspeople from around the world. Savile Row has a very strong pulse here in London, but ultimately, it’s just one way of looking at a suit. Our aesthetic is softer, an Italian chassis combined with the simplicity and refinement that befits a city like London. As a result we’ve spent the past 8 years at the front of the zeitgeist. Unusually, we are also across many categories, becoming as known for our footwear, jeans and outerwear as we have for our tailoring offering. It all feeds into the way we’re viewed - something classical but current. At any time someone could be being fitted for a £4,000 fully bespoke suit next to someone buying a £60 t-shirt. Everyone is welcome and everyone is treated the same.
What are the current challenges you face in industry?
The days of the bank manager with the bowler hat who knows your name are sadly gone. Retail is considered to be a risk area and therefore funding for growth is typically offered by a booming class of lenders. High base rates of interest make potential loans expensive. These lenders all say the same thing, the high-street banks won’t lend to you so we are filling the void. It all slows down growth.
Staffing a physical store where attendance 5 days a week is necessary has become difficult. Finding truly professional people who consider menswear their vocation and can build their career around a small independent retailer is as hard as it sounds. Nonetheless, our high retention rate is rare in retail, achieved through unorthodox practices, like closing our store on Sunday and Monday to give all staff joined-up time off. Whilst most stores won’t do this due to the impact on revenue, it ensures good staff are kept on, building our community further and exponentially benefitting the customer.
And what opportunities do you see for growth and expansion this year?
We’re fortunate to be operating in a landscape where e-commerce is relatively easy to set up and maintain - a big difference from when I started my career, as the increased acceptance of online shopping has carried us with it. Online’s percentage of revenue will only get bigger, as the responsibility lies with us to better tell our story, communicate aspects of our culture and explain new developments as if the customer was standing in front of us. 8 years of e-commerce figures has also helped us get a firm view of where our customers are, what they like and where potential physical expansion could follow. The US is our principal market online and a huge opportunity for a physical store.
We are also being trusted by our customers to attempt other categories. As luxury continues its general slump, workshops are more willing to open their doors to us and partner on new, exciting products.
How do you balance your omnichannel approach between online and in-store?
Our product is often very high touch, artisanally made and we try to replicate as much of the in-store experience as we can. As a result we can’t rely on third party logistics, so we fulfil everything from our store. It’s helped keep our e-commerce experience tightly controlled and allows for email chains to mirror in-store discussions. A by-product is keeping our return rate extremely low and our returning customer rate high.
Whilst producing content and keeping the online store current and competitive with the dominant players in our space is hard-work, it means we are as good as our own output and not reliant on spending money with traditional media or agencies.
What makes in-store shopping at Anglo-Italian unique?
Our shop is usually messy, full of bolts of cloth, bespoke fittings, packages from Italy with new products, customers’ garments being worked on, altered or repaired. What is mortifying to me is apparently pleasing for the customers, as they often remark how exciting it is to come into a store where something is happening. It’s the way I fantasise shops used to be, a place where you can stop by for a new shirt and end up being recruited for our cricket team - which is yet to win a game.
The team genuinely want you to look as good as you can and truly know what they are doing. There is no training manual on how to greet customers, and hopefully very little artifice. It’s a true human interaction with some great tailoring and design thrown in the middle. Our community of customers are a testament to the shop.
And finally, what is your vision for the future of Anglo-Italian?
We are beyond what I thought was possible, I dreamt of a small store selling the real deal to people I like and admire. I rarely leave the shop without seeing our products out in the wild, and there is no better feeling than that. The future is being written for me, with more and more people finding out about us from word of mouth, there is more demand for more space, people and products. It’s all happening organically.
If you want to find out more about the key trends shaping the retail industry, download the EDGE of retail 2025 report now.
Want to hear more from us? 
